“It’s true, you never forget your first love, and for me, that will always be Paris.” — Caitriona Balfe

DIMANCHE 4 Octobre

PARIS PERFECT BERGERAC - 17 AVENUE DE BOURDONNAIS

A WALK IN THE 7th | RUE CLER

After settling into our beautiful apartment, we strolled through our neighborhood past iconic buildings, down rue Saint-Dominique to Rue Cler for lunch and shopping. The day was unseasonably warm and sunny.

TWILIGHT CRUISE ON THE SEINE - BATEAUX PARISIENS

On Sunday evening, we took a twilight cruise on the Seine before returning to our apartment for a living room picnic, Eiffel Tower sparkles on the hour, and Midnight in Paris.

LUNDI 5 OCTOBre

RIVE GAUCHE | ÎLE DE LA CITÉ

SHAKESPEARE AND COMPANY | ODETTE | SQUARE VIVIANI

We started our day at the iconic Shakespeare and Company bookstore. I could spend hours browsing the stacks, and I always find a treasure to take home — stamped with Kilometre Zéro, of course.

Successful Shakepeare and Company shopping calls for a celebration of Champagne and choux at Odette followed by a stroll through the Square Viviani.

NOTRE DAME DE PARIS

We spent an hour in Notre Dame, marveling at the restoration and the magical afternoon light streaming through the stained glass.

BOUQUINISTES | PLACE DAUPHINE

En route to lunch in the Place Dauphine, we browsed through books, art, and postcards in the historic bouquinistes.

And with a view like this, everyday ends with sparkles.

MARDI 6 OCTOBre

RIVE DROITE | 2CV

JARDIN DES TUILERIES

Our day on the Right Bank began with a disappointing walk through the Tuileries Garden, due to construction in the fountains and clean up from Fashion Week.

PALAIS ROYAL

We stopped at Le Nemours for a drink before continuing our stroll through the Palais Royal to covered passageways.

COVERED PASSAGES | RUE MONTORGUEIL

We explored the Galerie Vivienne (above), lunch outside the Galerie Vero-Dodat, and ended our afternoon at rue Montorgeuil and the Passage du Grand Cerf.

CHAMPAGNE TOUR OF PARIS IN CLASSIC CITROËNS

On Tuesday evening, we hired two classic 2CVs to pick us up at our apartment and drive us around Paris. The red car was called Tulip and the other was named Dolly.

We stopped in the Place de l’Étoile near the Arc de Triomphe and in the beautiful Place Furstenberg in Saint-Germain for a Champagne toast and some photos.

There may be only one better way to end a day in Paris…

MERCREDI 7 OCTOBre

MONTMARTRE

« FÊTE » DES VENDAGES

On Wednesday, we went to Montmartre for the Fête des Vendages, the only week when the last remaining Paris vineyard is open to the public. We had visions of strolling through the vines and sampling the elusive Montmartre varietals. Instead, we stood in the rain listening to a passionate elderly gentleman recount, not only the story of the Montmartre vineyard, but rather about 400 years of French history — en français, bien-sur.

LUNCH AT LA MAISON ROSE | WANDERING IN THE RAIN

After an hour locked in a vineyard without a drop to drink, we shared a bottle of pink Champagne and enjoyed a lovely lunch at La Maison Rose. We stayed in the beautiful Rose de Loire apartment in this building last November.

We spent the rest of the afternoon, wandering through the winding streets of Montmartre. After a few days of unseasonably warm weather in Paris, Wednesday finally felt like fall.

Although Halloween isn’t as popular in France, there are plenty of treats and a few spooky touches too.

While the final line of Midnight in Paris claims that “Paris is most beautiful in the rain,” I’ve found that Paris holds is captivating in every kind of weather and every season. Looking back at photos taken in these exact same spots over the years, it’s remarkable to see how the changing light shifts the mood of the city—and how each visit offers a fresh perspective on familiar cobblestones.